Nearly 4 1/2 years ago, I visited Sarto’s, a then-new Italian restaurant, purveyor, bar and more in the Jefferson Park neighborhood. Click here for my write-up. A few evenings ago, I returned for the first time. Sarto’s now looks much like Sarto’s then, but it has matured with components that were planned now fulfilled. These include the chichetti bar and the pantry for take-out fare. Outdoor dining is a warm-weather feature. There are Saturday cooking classes too. And the neighborhood is glossier than it was then.